A Scottish restaurant with old rooms, plain-spoken service and a kitchen that knows when to leave a dish alone.
The place began as a small supper room above a busy bar. The name stayed because it suited the mix: locals, visitors, whisky drinkers, kitchen staff from everywhere and a dining room that works best when it is full but not frantic.
We keep the service direct. We explain the dram, warn you when a plate is rich and tell you honestly if the upstairs room will feel tight.
Lunch: soup, pies, fish, salads and a room with daylight in it.
Supper: heavier pans, lamb, barley, smoked haddock and puddings that do not apologise.
Late: a quieter shelf, smaller plates and guests who have stopped checking the time.
About eighty whiskies, grouped by mood and usefulness. A good list should help, not bully. Ask for smoke, fruit, sherry, salt or a dram that will not wreck the rest of the evening.
